Opened 23rd December last year, the 3 Capes takes Tassie bushwalking out of the mud and slippery tree roots and into the realm of well made tracks, boardwalks, and comfortable huts equipped with bunks, deck chairs, well set up kitchens with cooking pots and pans, and even USB charge points. So you only have to carry your sleeping bag, food, eatin' irons, toothbrush and clothing. The hills haven't moved, though. You still have to climb them.
So Susie, her cuz Lynne and I packed our gear and off we went down to Hobart. But before we were due to start the walk, we had a few days based in Hobart to kick up our heels a bit. We'd found an apartment in Sandy Bay, about 15 minutes walk from Salamanca Pl and Constitution Dock, and the lovely old houses and restaurants of Battery Point were just a dogleg off the direct route. The roses in the gardens of many of the homes in Battery Point had to be seen to be believed. Beautiful. Over 4 nights we ate Greek, Nepalese, Italian and Japanese, and managed to become acquainted with some very nice Tasmanian wines along the way.
We also did a full day tour of Bruny Island, including yummy cheese and oyster tastings, spent money at the Salamanca Markets (an exquisite black heart sassafras bowl now graces our dining room table), did a tour of the Henry Jones Art Hotel, and had a day at Mona - all wonderful.
Come Monday, we were ready for the start of our walk, which was a boat ride. The adventure began at Port Arthur, where 24 of us boarded an open catamaran for a 90 minute tour out of the bay and around the cliffs towards Cape Raoul. Our young host and skipper, Finn, gave us an entertaining and informative commentary along the way, pointing out a white chested sea eagle looking regally down at us from his high perch, eroding siltstone cliffs with horizontal strata totally different to the vertical dolerite columns which make up most of the cliffs in Tassie, swaying kelp beds, and finally a good look at the dramatic columns of Cape Raoul which the British Navy used for target practice in the early days of settlement. Shame on those Poms, but I guess they weren't much into conservation back then.
Finally, we were dropped at Denmans Cove for the start of our walk. A short 4 km uphill, and there was our first night's stop - Surveyors Hut. The resident Ranger met us on arrival, showed us where we were bunking, we got ourselves organised and then had plenty of time to sit around during the afternoon, just luxuriating in our surroundings. About 5:30 our Ranger gave us all a welcome chat and told us what to expect the following day.
And so to Day 2, an 11 km jaunt highlighted by stunning wildflowers, a couple of yellow tailed black cockatoos, and big sea cliffs with views forever. A feature of the walk is the frequent "encounter" points along the way. At these points there is usually a place to sit and consult the relevant info in the little book which is given to all starters on the track. This little booklet is a great addition to the experience and full of interesting facts about the area's terrain, flora, fauna, and history. This night's hut included the only shower opportunity on the track - a bush shower. A canvas bucket with a shower rose, and a rope over a pulley. Good fun. If you're a wuss, the Ranger lets you take a kettle of warm water to the shower.
Day 3. A day of dizzying heights. This was mostly an out and back to The Blade, near the end of Cape Pillar. At 17 km, it's the longest day by distance, but probably the easiest, because you can leave your big pack at the hut and just take snacks, a rain jacket, and water. It had rained through the night but had mostly backed off by the time we started walking around 8:45, so everything was looking and smelling fresh. The first part of the day was highlighted by another wonderful display of wildflowers, then the spectacular clifftop views started, culminating with The Blade - a 3 metre wide blade of dolerite columns with 300 metre drops on both sides. Just across a short stretch of water is imposing Tasman Island with it's lonely lighthouse. After the return journey to the hut to pick up our packs and have some lunch, it was only another hour to Retakunna Hut, our final night on the track.
Our final day was another stunner. For me, the highlight was finally seeing The Totem Pole, and if you've ever been the least bit into rock climbing you'll know what I'm talking about, but the whole day was wonderfully varied. It started with a climb up and over Mt Fortescue - at 482m the highest point of the track. The terrain varied from typical Tassie heath, to tall, open eucalypt forest, to full on rain forest in the lee of Mt Fortescue, complete with moss covered trees and tall tree ferns. But the big target for the day is the spectacular cliffs of Cape Hauy. The track ends at a high point overlooking The Candlestick and The Totem Pole, both meccas for rock climbers. The Totem Pole is a single slender pillar of dolerite standing just out from the main cliff, which somehow continues to defy gravity and the fury of the southern ocean. They say climbers can feel it tremble as the waves hit the base.
From Cape Hauy it was a couple of hours to the beautiful white sand of Fortescue Bay and our waiting bus pick up.
It was a fabulous walk. If this account has tweaked your interest, make sure you book well in advance because it gets booked out very quickly and only 48 people are allowed to start on the track each day.
Enjoy!
