In a nutshell, Moscow blew us away.
I guess the three of us all expected a bit of a hangover from the
soviet era – drab, uninteresting buildings and people of that time as well. How
wrong could we be?
What we encountered was a clean, well maintained, vibrant city with
beautiful buildings and happy
people proud of their city and their culture and history. We loved it. No doubt
there are still people doing it tough, as anywhere, but we didn’t see them.
We walked out of Moscow Airport Customs at 10:00 local time on
Friday June 6, my birthday, after 22 hours of travelling and were met by
Victoria from Travel All Russia, and Vlad our driver.
After introductions, Victoria left us with Vlad who treated us to a
2 hour scenic drive into Moscow city, crossing the Moskva River at least 4
times and pointing out interesting sights to us in Russian while we smiled and nodded.
Arriving at our hotel around midday, a bit early, they were able to
make one room available so we were able to have a freshen up shower before heading
out towards the Kremlin for a walk, grabbing a quick lunch on the way (a
tourist rip off, but we were so tired we didn’t care).
We checked out Red Square and then circumnavigated the Kremlin, 6-7
kms around, and returned to the hotel 3 hours later in time for a quick nap and
a glass of wine before heading out again – to the Circus.
The Circus was a few stops away on the Metro. Armed with a map,
directions to the nearest station, and which line to get, we were confident,
but it aint that easy when all the signs are in Russian and you can’t read a
word! However, after help from a number of smiling locals, communicating mostly
by sign language and pointing on the map, we eventually surfaced at the right
station and walked out to the street, finding the Circus close by.
By now, we were seriously tired – so tired I nearly fell off my chair into the aisle midway through the performance. But it was a fabulous show. All the acts you expect of a great circus and more. I wasn’t too fussed about the bear cub and the big cats, but other than that, it was first class.
Negotiating the Metro in reverse, we finally made it back to the
hotel and fell into bed around 11:30. Quite a birthday.
Next morning we met Vera, our lovely “Moscow Greeter” in the hotel
foyer. Susie had found Greeters on the net. They are mostly foreign language
students, locals, and for a small “donation” will show you around their
favourite, off the tourist track spots in Moscow.
Vera took us on a tour of the Metro to Victory Park, commemorating the
Russian victory over Germany in 1945.
First, a bit on the Metro. They first started building it in 1932,
and it is still being extended. They actually kept building it in WW2, using it
as a bomb shelter when required. It’s a great system, which a huge number of
Muscovites use to get around. Trains come roaring into the platforms, doors
open, people poor out and in, doors close and they roar out like a jet, 2-3
minutes apart and as little as 40 seconds apart during peak times. And they go
FAST. Once we got used to the
colour coding we were quite happy to use it on our own.
But what Vera wanted to show us was the beautifully decorated and
lit stations themselves. All are different, and commemorate different eras. A
treat just to get off the train and have a look around before going on to the
next one!
After our station tour we emerged at the entrance to Victory Park. Straddling the very wide avenue running past the park entrance is a giant almost replica of the Arc de Triomphe, built with a bit of Russian humour to commemorate the Russian victory over Napoleon. The park itself was impressive - somewhat like Centennial Park in Sydney, but more manicured and with more more monuments and statues. A sculpture which nearly brought us all to tears honoured the Russian Jews gassed during the holocaust. Very moving.
A long day on our feet, but we weren't finished yet. After saying our goodbyes and thanks to Vera, a quick shower and change and we were off to the Opera at the Bolshoi. La Boheme, at the big Bolshoi's little brother next door. Great performance, big voices and some dramatic dying!
Next day was our first with our tour company, and never having followed one of those flag carrying people before we were a little apprehensive, especially after meeting two of our fellow sheep, er, followers, the previous morning. One was an American who took every opportunity to bring The Lord Jesus Christ into the conversation, and the other an Aussie from Bourke who frequently announced in a loud voice he was a Real Australian - from The Outback. We christened them Ned Flanders and Norm. Fortunately we sheep were split into 2 groups of 12 and Ned and Norm were in the other one!
But we needn't have worried. Our guide, Svetlana, proved to be charming, very knowledgeable, and professional. What followed was a fascinating tour of the Kremlin. I had expected ex KGB Headquarters and the like, but found inside those impressive big walls to be nothing of the kind. Government buildings, including Vlad Putin's digs when he's in town, Cathedral Square, an ancient, massive cannon, a giant bell made for Catherine the Great so heavy it was never hung, and the Armoury, housing all kinds of memorabilia from Czarist times.
The company shouted us a very Russian lunch, then it was off to the Tretyakov Gallery, housing 150,000 works of art dating back to the 18th century. Svetlana was very passionate about her art and made the tour very interesting.
After dinner, Susie and Lynne wanted to go for a walk. My crook ankle was talking to me and I opted out. Mistake. Should have popped a couple of pills and gone with them. They had a ball wandering the squares and pedestrian streets in the perpetual twilight, got some great pics and finished with a vodka in a trendy bar.
Monday the 9th was our final day in Moscow. We were checked out of the hotel by 10:00, bags in the bus, and off to Sparrow Hill, a high point affording good views of the modern downtown part of Moscow. Also had a stop at an ex convent where unmarried rich girls were sent by their fathers to become nuns if they weren't married by age 20!
Then followed visits to the beautiful Cathedral of Christ the Saviour - stunning floors and mosaics on the walls), and then the candy castle St Basil's Cathedral on the edge of Red Square. Inside St Basil's was an intriguing labyrinth of rooms and passages, and we were lucky enough to be treated to the beautiful voices of a male acapella group singing Russian hymns.
From there we rushed to the station for our 4:30 departure on the fast train to St Petersburg and our next Russian experience.
