We liked it. Not so much we wanted to stay a week, but there was enough to keep us interested for a few days.
We stayed 3 nights at the Roebuck Bay Caravan Park, and for an extra $3 a night they gave us a site right on the water - at least it was right next to the water at high tide! At low tide the water was quite a distance away, and we were looking out across rocks and mud flats, but it was still lots better than looking at someone else's caravan or trailer.
It was Susie's birthday the day we arrived, so naturally she wanted to get her hair done before we went out for dinner that night. So I left her at a hairdresser's, went shopping for a pair of shorts, then took the car out to Broome Toyota. About 30 kays out of Broome, a little fuel bowser symbol had lit up on the dash. Hmmm. Susie got the manual out of the glove box, and it told us there was a problem with the fuel system. Oh, really. I figured it was probably the fuel filter and called the Toyota dealer as soon we reached town. "Yeah, you need a fuel filter, mate." They were booked up for days, but he said it wasn't a big job (I had a spare in the car) and if I could leave it with them the next day they could probably fit it in somewhere. Beauty. We had booked an all day flight to Cape Leveque the next day, so I dropped it with them that arvo and got a cab back to Roebuck Bay to meet Susie.
After a bit of a clean up, we headed out on foot for our evening's destination - Matso's Brewery. They didn't take bookings, and there was a half hour wait for a table, so naturally we fronted the bar to sample a couple of their offerings. Susie had a cider first up, and I had a pale ale. Next up was a sampler of five of their beers - all in little 7 oz glasses. Pretty good, then our friendly waiter arrived to tell us our table was ready. The food was pretty good, too, and after we'd eaten our fill we joined a bunch of others to watch the "Stairway to the Moon". From a point at the top of Roebuck Bay you can actually look east over the water (pretty unusual when you're on the west coast, eh!), and if the tide is right, ie low, the moonlight reflecting in the water across the flats creates a "stairway". We don't think it was quite at it's best, but nice anyway - so we wandered back to our waterside site pretty happy with our evening.
Next day we were up bright and early to be picked up at the park entrance by our hosts for the day - Kimberley Air Services. After a quick safety briefing from our 21 year old pilot Matt, we piled into our waiting Cessna Caravan and taxied out for takeoff. First destination was the Horizontal Waterfalls. As we approached the falls we descended to 1500' and did a few orbits. We arrived a bit after full flow, but the tides were quite high so there was still a lot of water going through a very small gap. After everyone had grabbed some pics, we turned for Cape Leveque, a landing on their little dirt strip, and a swim before a late breakfast and coffee. Then it was back in our chariot for a short flight to Cygnet Bay and the oldest pearl farm in Australia.
We were given an hour's very interesting tour of the operations and learned the history of the place. Really tough, pioneering stuff from a guy who had a vision and went for it. From humble beginnings it's now a multi million dollar business, still run by the same family that started it back in the 60s. Naturally, at the end of the tour they gave us a chance to buy, and Susie walked away with a nice pair of earrings!
Next on the agenda was lunch, then a fast ride out into the strong tidal currents and whirlpools of the gulf in a big zodiac powered by two big Yamaha 225s. The bloody thing did 45 knots flat out (that's around 90 kph for you non nauticals), and didn't the young guy driving it love to let it rip!
Our day concluded with a flight back down the coast to Broome, arriving just in time to pick up the car from the workshop. We were too tired to cook, so treated ourselves to kebabs from a Moroccan restaurant in town, and fell into bed.
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The last day of May, and we cruised out of Broome on our way north on the Cape Leveque road, heading for Middle Lagoon. The road to CL is 200 kays long, with the first and last 50 blacktop, and the middle hundred red sand. Okay when it's dry, but the thing that got me was that a lot of it is like a shallow half pipe, below normal ground level, and to pass an oncoming vehicle you have to climb up onto the wall of the "pipe". Scary thing was that a couple of times the oncoming guy (towing!) didn't slow down and started fishtailing as he climbed out of the middle of the road.
But we survived, and after a short stop at Beagle Bay to check out the indigenous community and the beautiful pearl shell altar in their church, banged our way along the badly corrugated track to a beautiful campsite at Middle Lagoon.
Tamara, the lovely indigenous lady who manages the place, gave us a choice - either up on the dry, dusty hill above the water at "front" beach cheek by jowl with about 10 others, or away on our own just behind the frontal dune at "back" beach, out of the wind, with a rustic little beach shelter to back up to, and our own private track through the dune to the beach. Only small drawback was a bit of a walk to the showers or toilets. A no-brainer, mate! We were very happy with no neighbours and a beach practically to ourselves.
Next morning we went for a long walk along our beach to the south end, watching the tide slowly expose outer reefs. There was a creek running out at the southern end, and a notice at the campsite said a large "salty" had been sighted in the area, but we saw nothing but dunes, mangroves, rocks, reef and ocean. Had a swim on our return, and chatted to some regulars. The place had a really laid back feel to it - a bit rough and ready, but friendly and relaxed.
Next morning another beach walk on the east side. Life is very simple on these trips, isn't it? Lovely rock formations and photos. More swimming. The water is so clear and a great temperature, it was always tempting to get my goggles and do a lap of the beach, but the thought of a big salty prowling around always kept our swims to a bit of a dive and splash. Wimps.
There's lots of good info on boards along the walk tracks about the early settlers, lighthouse keepers, wildlife and indigenous culture that can keep you reading for ages!
In the evening we took a wine over to the grassed area outside the cafe to watch the sunset and have a woodfired pizza for dinner. The sunset was a bit of a dud because of cloud, but the pizza was delish!
Next day we headed south again, bound for Purnululu NP and the Bungle Bungles, but first a stop at the aboriginal settlement of Lombardina for fuel. A very neat and well cared for community, we were impressed. We asked at the office about fuel, and they said yep, just go over to the bowser and there'll be someone over there. Went over to the bowser, no-one around. I yelled into a couple of deserted workshops, but no-one stirred. Finally, a tall aboriginal guy wandered over. "Help you, mate?" "Yeah, looking for some fuel." "Aaah, they're all on smoko mate, but I'll get it for you." So we filled the tank, about 120 bucks worth, and I said, "So how do I pay you? Cash? Can I give you a card?" "Nah mate, just tell 'em at the office how much and pay 'em there." Can you imagine someone in Sydney trusting you to do that?
There had been decent rain on the southern part of the road back towards Broome, and there were some slippy slidey sections but we eventually made it back onto the bitumen and stopped at Willare Bridge Roadhouse for the night. Great swathes of flat savannah woodland and long straight stretches of road made up the guts of next day's driving until we pulled into Fitzroy Crossing to do a little shopping, fuel up, and buy a painting from an aboriginal art co-op. We met the artist - Edwin Lee Mulligan, a young indigenous guy of around 35, very articulate and involved in his community. Then stocked up on supplies at the local IGA store, had the worst coffee ever, and drove 15 km out to Geikie Gorge. On arrival, we found we were halfway between the 3 hourly boat tours run by the local rangers, so opted to take the walking trail. We were a bit disappointed - the walking track never got near the water so we never really got close to the best part of the gorge - the cliffs on the far side of the gorge dropping straight into the water of the Fitzroy River. Maybe we should have waited for the boat tour?
On the road again, we made it to a place called Ngumpan Cliff Rest Area just on dark and set up the trailer as the sun put on a nice final display.
Sunrise next morning was sensational, but the wind had come up during the night and was in entirely the wrong direction for our pack up. As we tried to fold the tent onto the trailer the wind kept getting under the folded back annex roof, turning it into a spinnaker. The only way we could control it was to have Susie climb up and lay on the partially folded tent while another camper held the rest of it off the ground, as I drove around in a slow 180. After that it was easy!
Back to the car, and a 5 kay drive further north, we were at the start of the track into the spectacular Echidna Chasm. Only a 2km round trip, the chasm is very narrow - so narrow you can touch both sides in many places, with 200 metre high vertical red cliffs on both sides. The play of light on the walls as the sun moves overhead is quite something.
After a 35 km drive we parked the car and started on the short loop track around The Domes, which gave us a first close up look at the famous beehive like dome shapes of the Bungles. From there we continued up the track to Cathedral Gorge. The trail wandered between ever closer red rock walls towering on both sides, sometimes in the creek bed, until finishing at the head of the gorge in a magnificent amphitheatre with reflective water still in the pool below the now dry falls. A stunning and beautiful place.
We then retraced our steps and started up Piccaninny Creek - a valley much wider than the gorges, but giving us great views of the huge beehive formations all around. Marvelling at the erosive processes that have created this surreal landscape, we wandered up past The Window, and on to Whip Snake Gorge - not as spectacular as Cathedral, but we had it entirely to ourselves! Then the long hot walk back along sandy creek beds, river stones and eroded rock with a dwindling supply of water. But so spectacular, so ancient. We were buggared by the time we got back to camp, but very happy!
