As we drove the hour or so to Lake Bohinj the girls filled me in on their escapades over the two and a half weeks I had been away. Their stories of the TMB and Plitvice Lakes had me all smiles, but the thing that really grabbed my interest was Lynne's tale of tandem paragliding off a big peak next to the lake that morning. We arrived at B&B Gasperin, where I was delighted to find that we were on the top floor, with 66 steps up to our rooms - great therapy for my leg!
We used the rest of the afternoon for the girls to show me around this stunning part of Slovenia, and ended up standing watching some paragliders come into the landing area. Lynne noticed her young pilot from the morning come in, and we went over for a chat. I wanted to go up, but was worried about how my hip would handle a jarring landing, and eventually decided to sleep on it and talk to him in the morning.
Next day I was still worried about what the Travel Ins people would say if I damaged it again paragliding, so dobbed Susie in instead. I don't think she was too happy with me initially, but sucked it in and went off with Matic (pronounced Mateese, or as the girls put it - My Tits) to the cable car. Lynne and I went around to the landing area to wait, and eventually spied Matic's big tandem glider come around the side of the mountain waaay up high, tracking out over the lake. 15 minutes later they came in for the softest feet-up landing you could imagine, Susie skidding gently to a stop on her bum. She had a grin from ear to ear, was raving about what a buzz it was, and after seeing that landing I was hooked and became Matic's very next customer.
In the event, probably the biggest strain on my leg was walking from the chair lift to the take off area on loose scree, and what an incredible 20 minutes. Soaring out off the mountain top, a few turns to gain more height in the updraft, then tracking out over the lake with big peaks all around and the water 4000-5000 ft below. When I asked Matic how manoeuvrable the glider was he threw in a few wingovers and twirlies, and all too soon we were on the ground. Fantastic.
What to do next, we thought. So next day found us on bicycles heading out along the quiet roads of the nearby valley, through green fields, beautiful villages and of course the mandatory beautiful church to wander into. Lynne hadn't been on a bike for many a long year, but managed admirably dodging the many tractors which seemed to have picked that day to go cruising.
Next day was rafting down the river which drains the lake. They told us the rapids were only grade 1-2, so we thought, no probs, but this turned out to be the biggest threat to my leg of the week. We ran aground about 3 times, having to get out of the raft to free it each time. The last time, as we got the raft moving again, Susie was left stranded as Lynne and I jumped awkwardly back in. Lynne was on her back in the bottom of the raft and I was the only one paddling as we went through the hanging boughs of a sturdier than usual tree, which wiped me unceremoniously off and into the water again. Hilarious, but embarassing, as we were the only ones to come out of our boat during the day.
Needing a day of rest, we embarked on a day drive around the local mountains, for which Kelly at Gasperin had given us directions. The terrain we covered, and the views, were stunning. One of the roads took us to the highest driveable altitude in these mountains, finishing under the rocky summit tower of one of the areas highest peaks - only problem was, this winding, spectacular road was 1 and a half car widths wide, with 2 way traffic, which made for some tricky situations with both door mirrors pulled in and big drops off the side! We were doing fine until we confronted a large tour bus coming the opposite direction, resulting in us and about 10 other cars having to reverse down the mountain until a suitable passing spot was found. A few frayed tempers the result. The girls didn't even trust me enough to stay in the car, and walked the last kilometre up to the top! But the views were worth every nervy moment.
Next day, having had our "rest day", Susie decided she wanted to try rock climbing on real rock. There was a pretty nice rock wall right next to the lake, with an instructor just waiting for eager punters, so we fronted up, Susie got kitted out with harness and climbing slippers, and in no time at all she was high on the wall. I thought she did really well for a first timer, very positive, with none of the usual vibrating knees. Should have taken it up years ago.
I couldn't resist it, and got rigged up next. It was an easy wall, and I was able to avoid putting undue pressure on my injured leg, but I was surprised at how that wonderful feeling of moving economically over rock came back to me.
Lynne wasn't keen initially, saying no, she had tried it years ago in the Grampians, and that would do. But Susie and I prevailed, and up she went, doing really well, too.
For our afternoon activity, we decided to walk up to a local waterfall. As if B&B Gasperin didn't provide me with enough stairs to climb, the path up to this bloody waterfall must have had at least 5000 frigging steps! But we made it, to see the stream exiting a cleft in the middle of a giant rock wall and tumble into a clear pool.
On our last day, we decided on a paddle on the lake. Initially, we all got little plastic white water jobs which were diabolically hard to keep in a straight line, and after paddling a good deal and not going very far the girls decided a row boat might be better. Somehow, eventually, I ended in the row boat too, rowing, while we towed my kayak. But, I made sure the girls didn't miss out on all the fun, taking my turn in the stern while they took an oar each. A cooling dive into the pristine waters of the lake finished us off nicely after the row.
So we said goodbye to beautiful Lake Bohinj, and headed for Ljubljana, the capital of Slovenia, but made a stop in the magical town of Bled on the way. Bled, with it's gorgeous lake and island church in the middle is overun with tourists during the holiday season, but it's still worth a day visit. We found a park and walked around the lake - about 6 km - breaking it up with a boat trip out to the church on the island, and then lunch.
Continuing on, we arrived in Ljubljana late afternoon, and had 2 nights in this beautiful city. When I say city, I actually mean the Old Town, the medieval city. The whole city has a population of about 300,000, and is just a city, albeit in gorgeous mountainous surroundings. But the old town, split by the river and with cars banned, is a delight. Lots of outdoor restaurants, music, and plenty of room to move around. We loved it, signing up for a walking tour of the old town on our only full day there.
On the morning after our 2nd night we sadly left Lynne to do some shopping before catching her long flight home, and headed off in the car for Piran, on the tiny little 48km piece of Adriatic coastline owned by Slovenia. Our little hotel, the Barbara Fiesa, was right on the water on a little bay around the point from the main town, home for the next 3 nights, and was our introduction to Adriatic "beaches". Stones and rocks, that is, not a grain of sand to be seen anywhere.... but, the water is sensational - clean and clear and a beautiful temperature for swimming. And just as well, because it was stinking hot - 37C give or take 1 or 2, and stayed that way for the next 10 days.
And don't the locals flock to the sea, draping themselves on the rocks, stones and concrete in their hundreds, in various body sizes and degrees of coverage from not much to totally naked, and all nut brown. Lots of brown boobs and brown nuts. Lots of boats moored off the beach as well, with families swimming off them. Heads bobbing in the water in their hundreds, loving it.
When we weren't availing ourselves of the hotel supplied sunbeds and brolly, or swimming out into the sea with everyone else, we walked the kilometre around the foreshore path to the old town of Piran. Lovely old buildings, restaurants, shops, bars, churches, and lots more brown bodies.
Now fully into seaside mode, we motored down the coast into Istria, Croatia, and the seaside town of Rovinj. Our apartment, Villa Marea, was a 20 minute walk from the sea, and it was stinking hot, so we flopped into the pool to cool off, then walked to the local pizza joint for a meal and some supplies at the Market. Next day, another stinker, we walked down to the old town and port - beautiful again, as are all these old Adriatic towns. Did the usual wandering around, swam off the rocks, and lazed about, but it was so hot we retreated fairly early to the grounds of our apartment where we could fall into the pool at regular intervals and then slink back to the shade.
We did manage a morning kayak paddle out to a couple of the offshore islands the next morning. Stunning paddling, but we were both in single plastics with no rudders. They weren't easy to keep in a straight line, and Susie was having a bit of a job staying with us, veering of at tangents all the time and not having a great time. I was feeling a bit of a shit, as it was my selfish idea to go in singles, but after a rest and a swim on one of the islands she suddenly got the hang of it and did pretty well for the rest of the paddle. Whew!
Next port of call was Zadar, a bit of a drive down the coast. We could have made the trip a lot shorter by taking the inland 4 lane, but chose the scenic coast route instead. Only one lane each way, but what a stunner of a drive! Weaving in and out and around steep rocky bays with little villages nestled in them and always with the rocky, craggy mountains rising up on our left as we headed down the coast. I would put this drive in the same league as the Great Ocean Road or the coast drive from LA to SFO.
This time our apartment was a bit out of the main town, but a 5 minute walk from the sea. We literally walked down the lane, across the road which ran practically in the water, and dived in.
Our host, Peter, was a social being, and we got caught up in a little gathering of his after dinner that night. After dining at a seaside restaurant he recommended - very nice - we strolled back to find a bit of a party going on in the back yard. We weren't going to get any sleep anyway, so joined in. Unfortunately, Peter's father makes a drinkable, but a bit rough, white wine on his farm in the Zadar hinterland, and this stuff was flowing quite freely. It was a great night, but we were a little, er, dusty next morning.
Never mind - a bit of brekkie and a swim in the sea fixed us right up. I didn't think I'd be up to it, but once in the water felt okay, and swam about a kay and a half along the shore. Beautiful water. Felt pretty good after. Not quite up to up to more of Peter's father's rocket fuel, but not bad.
After a good night's sleep we were ready for anything, and fronted up for another little paddle. This time up the coast a bit from Zadar, where we paddled around the walls of the fortified old town of Trogir, then up a narrow, very cold fresh water stream, fed by a mountain spring. Pretty good fun, and this time we were in a double, with steering!
That afternoon we went into the old town and did our usual wandering around. Absolutely beautiful again, with the all the fascinating little narrow alleyways and lovely harbour with every boat from little 6hp equipped fishing dinghys to multi million dollar super yachts moored in it. But the highlight, after dinner (stuffed, grilled baby squid - yum), was a stroll along the waterfront to a point where there is a Water Organ. The pipes are installed under a concrete waterside walkway, and somehow the gentle wave action under the walkway produces the most wonderful random organ music. The notes come both from the water side of the walkway, and up through trumpet type holes in the concrete, and just a little further along is a giant disc set into the walkway made entirely of solar panels. These panels just sit there and soak up the sun's energy all day, but as it gets dark, the panels start putting on a multi-coloured light show. The disc is about 20 metres across and kids (and oldies) have a ball dancing about on the ever changing light show.
Next, we headed off to the fascinating and beautiful town of Split, and then the island of Hvar. To be continued....
